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To change your background, go to your settings and there to theme and enter in the css field the following:
#titlebar {background-image:url('http://www.23hq.com/ise_80/photo/2060478/large?signature=669+1182093025+F1C4E51AD7D3FDCC350D8D1DC444C7F118DDE2A7'); height:160px;}
#titlebar table {margin-top:100px;}
#titlebar h1 {color:white;}
.linkbutton {background-color:transparent; border-bottom:none;}
a.linkbutton {color:white; font-weight:bold;}
.titlebarsearch {visibility:hidden;}
That is all....as backgroud image you must a picture from you or any other picture. Also the height should be edit by you...
There is a photogroup for chaning 23hq through CSS, you will find it here:
http://www.23hq.com/photogroup/style/