JMSAZ

We are now standing on the Pennsylvania Avenue Terrace of the Newseum.

To the Southwest we see the towers of the Smithsonian Castle and decide to head over there...

Walking down Jefferson Drive we duck into the Hirshhorn Museum and get a view of the Castle Towers alongside the Washington Monument from a third story balcony. We'll continue our tour of the Hirshhorn a little later.

In front of us is a colorful brick building with elaborate decorations - the Arts and Industries Building. This building was built in 1881, and was the first structure built specifically to house the US National Museum. It is also one of the finest examples of nineteenth-century exposition architecture in the nation. Sadly, because of structural issues, the building is no longer open to the public, awaiting funds to renovate the building and create a new life for the structure.

Before moving on, look up above the entrance - that's a cast-zinc sculptural group called Columbia Protecting Arts and Industry. Sculpted by Caspar Buberl, Columbia represents the nation, with a headress of five point stars. Arts is on the left, reading a book with an owl representing knowledge, while Industry holds the tools of the nineteenth century's new industries.

The museum was overflowing from it's opening, until 1911 when the National Museum of Natural History opened across the Mall. That building received all the collections of natural and human history, along with the art collection. What remained focused on the industrial arts, technology and American history (which would later become the National Museum of American History). In 1976 when the last of the collection moved to the National Air & Space Museum just a little East on the Mall, the A&I building became home office space upstairs and a recreation of the 1876 Philadelphia Exposition on the main floor. In 2004 the building was closed down awaiting structural rehabilitation.

We are now sitting and resting in the Mary Livingston Ripley Garden between the A&I building in front of us and the Castle behind us. This space was planned to become a parking lot, but Mrs. Ripley (wife of the 8th Secretary of the Smithsonian S. Dillon Ripley) and the Ladies Council convinced the Smithsonian to instead install a fragrant garden here. Thank you Mrs. Ripley. (The parking would eventually go underground).

In the middle of the Ripley Garden is the Gur-Karma-Rana Fountain, a restored 19th-century fountain. The Fountain is named for the Keith Family who paid for the restoration and plumbing of the fountain. The name GUR-KARMA-RANA represents the first letters of the names of the Keith family members (Gurdit Singh, Karam Kaur, Mahinder Singh, Rajinder Kaur, and Narinder Kaur).

As we begin walking again we encounter the West Entrance to the Castle, but we're bypassing that one - not nearly as interesting as the Mall Entrance.

We're going to walk a little out of our way, but trust me, it's worth it. We are now standing in the middle of the Mall, halfway between the Castle in front of us and the National Museum of Natural History behind us. It's hot and humid out, so I won't bore you with the history of James Smithson and the Smithsonian, instead go here if your interested - http://www.si.edu/about/history.htm.

Instead, I'd like to bore you with the history of the building itself.

When a competition was held in 1846 to design a building to house the newly chartered Smithsonian Institution, Washington was a city of neo-Classical buildings, meant to evoke ancient Greece and Rome. Architect James Renwick, Jr. won the competition with his design of a Romanesque castle, evoking a connection with historic English collegiate architecture. The other deliberate change was material - a red sandstone, quarried in Seneca, Maryland, also to stand in contrast to the government buildings. Today the Castle looks a little disjointed with it's various structural features, but they served a purpose. When the Smithsonian was chartered, the building had to perform public and private functions in the space - museum, library, laboratories, lecture halls, art gallery and offices.

The Central section of the Smithsonian Castle - the North Tower (on the right) is the tallest of the nine towers and houses a bell presented by the Whitechapel Foundry in 1996 in honor of the Smithsonian's 150th Anniversary.

Atop the North Tower fly the American and Smithsonian flags.

Watching over the museums of the Smithsonian is a statue of Joseph Henry (1797-1878), the first Secretary of the Smithsonian. He was a well respected scientist in the field of magnetism.

Upon becoming Secretary of the Smithsonian in 1846, he worked for the rest of his life to advise the government on scientific issues and to keep the Smithsonian as a research as well as curatorial institution.

The dedication of the statue. In 1881 the statue was erected facing the Castle, when that was Smithsonian. In 1996, as part of the 150th Anniversary, the statue was turned so that he could watch over the entire complex.

At the base of Secretary Henry's statue is a floral version of the Smithsonian sun symbol.

Before entering we note the dedication plaques - this one with the address...

...and on the other side the dedication plaque.

Are you coming?

Look up the North Tower.

And now it's time enter the Smithsonian Castle.

As we enter the building, the first thing we encounter is this small room to our left. It contains the crypt of Smithsonian benefactor James Smithson.

James Smithson was originally interred in Genoa, Italy, and the Smithsonian paid to maintain his grave. In 1901 they were notified that the graveyard would be relocated, and the Board decided to bring James Smithson's body to Washington, DC. It is a fascinating history and the full story is here - http://www.si.edu/oahp/Smithsons%20Crypt/Exhibit%20Start%20Page.html.

I feel an obligation to stop here each trip to honor James Smithson and thank him for his generosity.

Also located in this alcove is the marble plaque that the Smithsonian placed at the gravesite.

The Great Hall once was filled with exhibits ranging from mounted animals to rockets to paintings. Today they artifacts have moved and in their place is a visitors center. Here is where we can pick up maps, become member, grab a snack or do a little shopping. Also here are a few display cases with the history of the Castle. Here we see a bust of the architect, James Renwick, Jr.

Now we head for the exhibit halls. First is Schermer Hall, which houses smaller temporary exhibits. Here we see a display of Greek Coins.

Look up in Schermer Hall to see the beautiful restoration.

In a small case at the entrance to Schermer Hall is a display of carved ivory.

A carved ivory puzzle ball.

A fan.

A shell scene.

A boat

A village

Amazing - while we were looking at the carved ivory, the special exhibition was changed over from Greek coins to American Heroes of the Olympics.

A 1904 Participation Medal - how cute.

John Shea won this Gold Medal for Speed Skating in the 1932 Lake Placid Games.

Dick Button won this Gold Medal in the 1952 Oslo Games.

Dorothy Hamill's 1976 Gold Medal

Edwin Moses 1976 Gold Medal for Hurdles.

Edwin Moses wins again in Los Angeles, 1984

The American Men won this Gold for Gymnastics.

The reverse of the 1984 Olympic Gold

One of Bonnie Blair's many (many) Golds - this one from Albertville in 1992.

Bonnie Blair wins again in 1994.

Seventy years later, John Shea's grandson Jimmy Shea won Olympic Gold in Skeleton.

Olympic torches

Medals and torch from the Paralympic Games

Medals from the Summer Games

Medals from US Hosted Games

Medals from Winter Games

Finally we arrive in the West Wing. The resemblance to a chapel is intentional - complete with apse, rose window and clerestory windows. Originally intended as a lecture hall, it was also a restaurant for years, and now is the America's Treasure Chest Gallery featuring highlights from each Smithsonian division. As usual we are all alone in the room.

Just inside the entrance we are greeted with this welcome message from the current Secretary of the Smithsonian, Dr G Wayne Clough.

The first case we come across contains pieces from the Smithsonian American Art Museum, the National Museum of African Art, and the National Museum of American History.

On top of the case is a peacock from the National Museum of Natural History.

A life mask of President Abraham Lincoln, taken in 1865 just weeks before his death.

Paul Manship sculptures from the Smithsonian American Art Museum

From the National Air & Space Museum come this signed dollar bill from the Apollo 15 astronauts.

Also in the case is this fragment from the Airship Hindenburg

A bust of General James Doolittle

General James Doolittle's goggles.

Between cases we look up and appreciate the detail of the arches.

The apse, where the stage for lectures once stood.

Another grouping from American History, these are Gordie Howes ice skates.

Electricity - Thomas Edison bulb, 1882

Electricity - Gibson Guitar, 1984

Rose Window, Clerestory windows and ducks

Giant bird-eating tarantula from the Natural History Museum.

Jade jewelry from the National Gem Collection

Love by Robert Indiana from the Hirshhorn Museum

A model of the Concorde, a full size version is on display at the Udvar-Hazy Center.

Models of rockets on display at the National Air & Space Museum

The genesis of the First Ladies Gown collection.

Looking up, we notice skylights integrated into the ceiling.

A snow leopard watches over the West Wing.

Rose window

Now that we've gotten a taste of what we have to look forward to at the Smithsonian, it's time to leave the Castle and stroll the gardens out back.

Stepping out of the Castle on the Independence Avenue side, we see the Haupt Parterre and the Renwick Gates. This is the Enid A Haupt Garden, a four acre public garden. To our left is the Fountain Garden and the National Museum of African Art, to our right is the Moongate Garden and the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery. Let's begin our promenade.

At the bottom of the steps is this helpful map so we know where were going.

At the head of the Parterre is this sundial to tell time.

Along the Parterrere are these interesting borders.

And now we stroll around quietly for a while and let the flowers speak for themselves...

An up close look at the Renwick Gates. We are looking across Independence Avenue and up L'Enfant Promenade - the building is the Department of Energy.

Turning around, we enjoy a view of the Southern side of the Castle.

Ahead of us is the entrance to the Arthur M Sackler Gallery - the Smithsonian's Museum of Asian Art. This is merely the lobby, the museum extends 3 stories below ground, but we'll visit there at a later time - there's more gardens to see.

Walking towards the Moongate Garden we get another view of the Sackler's lobby.

The Moongate Garden, designed by architect Jean Paul Carlhian, was inspired by the gardens and architecture of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, China. The Temple of Heaven was designed using a geometrical, axial layout, centered around the cardinal points of the compass. The garden is meant to take its visitors to a relaxing place usually surrounded by water where they may absorb the cool air emanating from the water.

Pass through the Moongate...

...and this pool greets you.

This looks like a great place...

...to pose for a picture...

... as well as some different angles on the Castle.

After leaving the Moongate Garden, a glance to the left gives us a view of the Freer Gallery, the Washington Monument and the S Dillon Ripley Center. Those are for another day, we're headed to the Waterfall Garden.

Looking across the Parterre towards the Waterfall Garden and the Arts & Industries Building.

On this side of the Garden is the Lobby for the National Museum of African Art.

This is another excellent museum that will have to wait for another day.

We now head down the tree lined path to the Waterfall Garden.

Aw, look in the tree - a squirrel!

At the start of the Waterfall Garden are these small fountains with streams that run to the middle of the walkway. A favorite hangout for the local birds.

We're now in the middle of the garden and the streams meet to create these small waterfalls.

The namesake Waterfall and a fountain in the middle of the path.

Behind the waterfall is the Eastern end of the Castle.

Turning around, we see the lobby of the National Museum of African Art.

The circular windows of the NMAA echo the domes on the roof.

As we continue down the path through the fountain, we see a statue in front of the Arts and Industries Building...

Framed in the (now closed) doorway is Spencer Fullerton Baird.

Secretary Baird is one of my heroes. Today we think of the Smithsonian as primarily a museum, and most people are unaware of the research that the Institution is involved in. When Baird became Secretary in 1878, it was quite the opposite - the Smithsonian was a research institute with little involvement with the public. Secretary Baird is the man that transformed the Smithsonian into a dual-purpose institution, working to assemble a collection to create the National Museum, to accomplish the mission of James Smithson - "the increase and diffusion of knowledge."

Secretary Baird's vision started the process that has so far encompassed 19 museums, a zoological park and research facilities throughout the world. But aside from this work he was also a prominent scientist in the natural histories. Today his name is little known, but the Smithsonian wouldn't be what it is without him.

Here along the western side of the Arts & Industries Building where we are standing with Secretary Spencer was a driveway just 40 years ago. Known as "Rocket Row" this is where the Smithsonian's rocket collection was displayed before the National Air & Space Museum was built. In 1976 the NASM was opened and the rockets were moved. In 1987 when the Enid Haupt Garden was developed, the road that once ran under our feet was removed and replaced with the brick paths and plants we see today.

A similar view as the one seen in the historic photo on the sign.

Rocket Row today.

One last stop before heading back to the Castle - The Kathrine Dulin Folger Rose Garden. We walked by the front of the garden when we stopped at the Keith Family Fountain, but back here is where the roses are thick.

Walking along the path next to the Castle (behind us) we come to The Andrew Jackson Downing Urn.

Andrew Jackson Downing was the Father of American landscape architecture and transformed the National Mall in the nation's first landscaped public park in 1850. This urn originally stood in the Mall in front of the National Museum of Natural History, but was relocated to the Haupt Garden in 1989.

A view of the back of the Waterfall Garden and the NMAA lobby.

Looking back at the path we just walked.

Time to go back through the Castle to end the day.

As we exit the castle onto the Mall, we see the National Museum of Natural History, a stop in the near future..

...but alas, the sun is setting and it's time to get back to the hotel.